The meaning, the safe things to try, and an honest verdict — from twenty years in the field and Miele’s public help pages. Not a substitute for a diagnosis: if in doubt, switch the machine off at the wall and call 0434 000 303.
The machine is not getting enough water in — usually the tap, the hose or the small filter where the hose meets the tap.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first, and book if the code comes back.
The machine cannot pump the water out properly.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first, and book if it still will not drain.
The machine could not heat the water the way it should.
Usually needs a technician — a restart is safe to try once, but if the code returns, book it in.
The door could not lock, so the machine will not start the cycle.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first, but if it keeps happening the door lock usually needs a technician.
The door could not unlock at the end of the cycle.
Usually needs a technician — do not force the door; if a restart does not release it, book and we can free your laundry safely.
There is a problem with the drive that turns the drum.
Usually needs a technician — Miele lists this as a fault you cannot fix yourself.
There is a problem with the drive that turns the drum.
Usually needs a technician — Miele lists this as a fault you cannot fix yourself.
The unit that controls where water goes inside the machine has a fault.
Usually needs a technician — Miele lists this as a fault you cannot fix yourself.
The machine has found water leaking inside itself and has stopped to protect your home.
Stop using it and book — leak faults are there to protect your home, so leave the machine off until it is checked.
The machine thinks it is leaking — sometimes a false alarm, sometimes real.
If you find any water at all, stop using it and book — if it is bone dry and the code does not return, it was a false alarm.
The machine's built-in leak protection has switched everything off because it found water where it should not be.
Stop using it and book — this safety system has done its job, so leave the machine off until it is checked.
The dryer has tripped up — often after the door was opened mid-cycle to add clothes, or because the drum is too full.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first, and book if the code keeps coming back.
There is a problem with the motor that turns the drum or its electronics.
Usually needs a technician — Miele lists this as a fault you cannot fix yourself.
The clothes still were not dry after three hours, so the dryer stopped the programme.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first, and book if loads still come out damp.
Air cannot move through the dryer properly — nearly always a build-up of fluff in the filters.
Often fixable yourself — a proper filter clean fixes most cases, so book only if the code returns after that.
The dryer is telling you its fluff filters are clogged and air cannot get through.
Often fixable yourself — this is routine filter cleaning, so book only if the light stays on after a thorough clean.
The water container is full, so the dryer has paused until it is emptied.
Almost always fixable yourself — book only if the message keeps appearing with an empty container.
The dryer still thinks the filter needs cleaning — usually because it was cleaned while the machine was switched off, so it never registered.
Often fixable yourself — doing the clean with the dryer switched on clears the message in most cases.
The machine cannot pump its water away, so water is left sitting in the bottom — usually something is blocking the drain filter or drain pump.
Often fixable yourself — try the filter clean first, but if F11 comes back there is a deeper drain blockage and it needs a technician.
The machine is not getting enough water in — the tap may be off, the inlet hose kinked, or the small filter where the hose meets the tap blocked.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first; if the tap and hose are fine and F12 keeps coming back, book a technician.
Water is not flowing into the machine properly — the same causes as F12: tap not fully open, a kinked inlet hose, a blocked inlet filter or low water pressure.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first; if it keeps returning the inlet filter or valve likely needs attention from a technician.
The pump that circulates water around the machine is stuck or not building pressure — common after the dishwasher has sat unused for weeks or months.
Sometimes clears with a restart, but if F14 comes back it points to a pump or sensor problem and usually needs a technician.
There is a fault with the electrical relay that switches the water heater on and off — Miele class this as a fault you cannot fix yourself.
Stop using it and book — this is an electrical heating fault and always needs a technician.
The machine has detected too much foam inside, usually from too much detergent or rinse aid, and has paused the programme to protect itself.
Often fixable yourself — it is nearly always a detergent dosing issue; only book if it keeps happening with correct dosing.
A sensor that monitors the pump motor speed has failed — Miele class this as a fault you cannot fix yourself.
Usually needs a technician — there is nothing useful you can do from the outside.
The built-in leak protection (Waterproof system) has found water where it should not be, cancelled the programme and started pumping the water out.
Stop using it and book — this is the leak alarm and the machine needs to be checked before it runs again.
The oven could not reach its self-cleaning temperature, usually because there is too much leftover food soiling inside.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first, and book if it comes back.
The door could not lock for self-cleaning, often because something is caught around the door or the door seal.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first, and book if it comes back.
The door lock will not release after self-cleaning, so the door stays locked.
Usually needs a technician if the door stays locked after switching off.
The oven's electronic control module has developed a fault that cannot be fixed from the outside.
Stop using it and book.
A general technical fault that can sometimes be cleared with a short power reset.
Often fixable yourself — try the reset first, and book if the fault returns.
The food probe (the plug-in meat thermometer) is faulty, not the oven itself.
Often fixable yourself — the oven works without the probe, and a replacement probe comes from Miele.
The oven turned itself off as a safety measure because it had been running for an unusually long time.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first.
The oven is not getting enough cooling air, usually because its air vent is covered or blocked.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first, but book if it keeps appearing.
The oven has detected that it is getting too hot inside.
Stop using it and book.
One of the touch controls has been covered for more than about ten seconds — by a finger, a spill or an object — so the cooktop has switched itself off.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first.
There has been a fault in the cooktop's power supply.
Stop using it and book.
The cooktop has overheated, often because of an empty or unsuitable pan, or a blocked cooling fan underneath.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first, and book if it comes back.
The cooling fan is blocked, or the cooktop is not getting enough ventilation from underneath.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first, and book if it comes back.
The overheating protection has stepped in — usually caused by an empty pan, oil heated on a high setting, or blocked airflow under the cooktop.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first, but book if it keeps triggering.
The cooktop's electronics have developed a fault.
Usually needs a technician if the power reset does not clear it.
The overheating protection has been triggered, often by an empty pan, oil on a high setting, or poor ventilation underneath.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first, and book if it comes back.
The cooling fan is blocked or has failed.
Often fixable yourself if something is blocking the fan — book if the message comes back.
The cooktop is in shop demonstration mode, so the display works but nothing heats up.
Often fixable yourself — it is a setting, not a fault.
The cooktop cannot detect a suitable pan on that zone — the pan is missing, not induction-compatible, or too small.
Often fixable yourself — it is almost always the pan, not the cooktop.
The child safety lock or system lock is switched on, so the cooktop will not respond.
Often fixable yourself — it is a lock setting, not a fault.
The oven cannot draw water from its container — often a loose or missing suction hose, a pump dried out after long storage, or very soft filtered water it cannot detect.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first, and book if it comes back.
Water cannot drain out of the steam system, usually because of limescale build-up inside.
Often fixable yourself — try descaling first, and book if the fault stays.
Water is not getting into the oven, usually because the water tap is closed or the water inlet is blocked.
Often fixable yourself — check the tap first, and book a technician or plumber if it keeps happening.
The oven is getting too hot inside because limescale or a partly closed water tap is stopping enough water getting in.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first, and book if you would rather not descale it.
The oven is not heating up as expected — sometimes simply because of a large amount of frozen food, or a water container that is not pushed fully in.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first, and book if it comes back.
The power was interrupted while a programme was running — E04 means it happened during the descaling programme.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first.
The oven's electronic control module has developed a fault that cannot be fixed from the outside.
Stop using it and book.
The small floats that measure the water level in the container have stuck, usually after the oven sat unused with water left in the container.
Often fixable yourself — a clean, dry container usually clears it.
Water could not be pumped out of the oven compartment, usually because the filter in the floor of the compartment is dirty or not seated properly.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first, and book if it comes back.
The temperature limiter — a built-in overheat safety device — has developed a fault.
Stop using it and book.
The microwave's electronic control module has developed a fault that cannot be fixed from the outside.
Stop using it and book.
The temperature limiter — a built-in overheat safety device — has developed a fault.
Stop using it and book.
Nothing is wrong — the microwave is keeping your food warm for up to 15 minutes after cooking finishes.
Nothing to fix — this is normal keep-warm behaviour.
The microwave is in shop demonstration mode, so it looks like it works but will not actually heat.
Often fixable yourself — it is a setting, not a fault.
The microwave will not start because the door has not been opened in the last 20 minutes — a protection against running it empty.
Often fixable yourself — it is a safety feature, not a fault.
A dark display usually means the clock display or the night-time switch-off setting is turned on, not that the microwave has died.
Often fixable yourself — check the settings first.
The motor has overheated, usually because the filters are clogged with dust.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first, and book a repair if it keeps cutting out after a filter clean.
Depending on the model, the vacuum either does not recognise its battery or the roller brush has jammed.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first.
An internal system fault has occurred inside the vacuum.
If that reset does not clear it, it usually needs a technician.
The battery has overheated, or the vacuum does not recognise the battery fitted.
Stop using it and book if the lights come back after cooling down — an overheating battery is a safety concern.
The vacuum cannot detect its handle, or an internal fault has occurred.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first, and book if it stays flashing.
The vacuum cannot detect its handle, or an internal fault has occurred.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first, and book if it stays flashing.
The battery is flat, or an internal fault has occurred.
Often fixable yourself — try the steps first.
There is a battery fault, often because it is being charged somewhere too hot or too cold.
If the fault comes back, stop using it and book — battery faults are not worth risking.
The vacuum has a temperature fault — it is running too hot or too cold.
Often clears itself after cooling down — book if it keeps coming back.
This list is growing — entries are added only once verified in the field. Sources: Miele’s public help pages and Livelee’s own service history. If your code isn’t listed, put it in the booking form and it will be read properly.